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I Love Surfboarding

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I was able to surf a lot this weekend… and I caught a lot of good waves too.

I surfed Thursday, twice on Saturday, Sunday after church, and then again last night (Monday). The water was a warm 70 degrees all weekend and very nice and consistent chest to head high range.


Swami’s and Boneyards on a beautiful Saturday afternoon.

A lot of people ask me why I enjoy surfing so much. I have a confession. The actual paddling and catching of waves is about 50% of why I love surfing. The other 50% is bobbing around in the Pacific Abyss while looking at the sun set over the ocean. In fact, my conversation with a fellow surfer last night went like this:

Me: Wow. Look at that sunset.
Him: Man it’s so beautiful.
Me: I know…look at those clouds. The entire sky is red.
Him: Those colors look so ridiculous.
Me: Everything is so beautiful right now.
Him: It’s so perfect right now.
Me: I love everything right now.
Him: I know. I’m so happy to be back home. You definitely don’t see this in New York.
Me: I bet.
Him: There’s something about being in the water just as the sun is setting…
Me: If I cried during beautiful moments… this would be one of those times I would be crying.
Him: Haha.
Me: Thank you for asking me to surf with you tonight.
Him: You’re welcome.
Me: I’m glad you think of me when you think of surfing.
Him: You’re welcome. Thanks for joining me.
Me: My pleasure. I love spending time with you…
Him: Okay.
Me: I’m glad we shared this moment together.
Him: Dude you’re messing up my moment right now.
Me: Ok I’ll stop.


Our view last night…

I also got a screenshot of the Grandview webcam yesterday while I was at work:


Get out of my way yo!

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Written by jonewantsm3

October 2, 2012 at 1:00 am

Posted in Rant

One Response

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  1. I have always wanted to get into surfboarding for a few years now. I’ve tried catching the wave a few times, took some safety lessons, but until now I somehow convinced myself against it.

    Reese R

    February 10, 2014 at 5:51 am


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